We arrived in Munich this morning by an overnight train from Venice. It was 6:30 when we got out of the train and the sun was already high up and shining down brightly over the station – I still haven’t gotten over the day & night schedule in this continent. We had looked up a couple of hostels on the “Lonely Planet for Backpackers in Europe” and found one of them right across the station. Womnbat’s – a very cool and youthful looking place with a large, colourful reception and loads of pictures and messages across all the walls. Since the rooms are not going to be available till 2 pm, we decided to sit around and make use of the free wi-fi in the lobby area. We’re dumping our luggage in the locker room and then going to take a walk around the nearby areas and get some breakfast and maybe also go for a walking tour before we come back and check-in… I love this hostel-funda across Europe… very cool concept. While we think of other posts, here’s one I had written earlier about our stay in Warsaw.
WARSAW
Here are some statistics…
- Throughout the advent of time, Poland has been invaded by one country or the other. At one point, it didn’t exist on the world map cos parts of it were annexed by Austria, Hungary and Germany
- Poland was invaded by Germany from the West and the Soviets from the East during the war – these 2 nations were among the big powers in those times.
- Over 80% of Warsaw was demolished and a pile of rubble at the end of World War II.
Thought Warsaw might not have achieved the same scale of development like some of the German cities after the war, I doubt if any German city were so badly ravaged. And this is now the Capital of the country. Almost 95% of its historical buildings have been re-constructed based on memory and photographic records. So what you get to see in the city are not really 14th or 15th century structures but those that are just over 50 yrs old. The city is built over two levels. And we discovered this as we walked around the edge of the Old town – as we got to the edge– we suddenly noticed another level below us, with buses, trams an cars running a few metres under our very feet!! Some of the parks also have multiple levels. There is just one big mall in the city. For those who didn’t see my facebook updates – it took us two days after we got there to see the first South Asian. One of our major grouses against Warsaw was the language barrier – especially if you are speaking to an official at the railway office or in a tram. 1 in 10 of them would speak maybe a few words in English. The others just rattle off in Polish while fully aware that the other person is not understanding a word of what is being said. And then they nod their head sideways in great disappointment and disdain for not knowing their language… Hello, does the colour of my skin suggest that I am from Poland and doesn’t the backpack on my shoulders tell you that I’m a foolish tourist???
Our visit started on a rather amusing but tiring note. We had the privilege of staying at a 5-star hotel at Warsaw thanks to P & S (technically S & S!!), who gifted us reward points that he had earned at the hotel chain over the last few years. In the confirmation mail, he had specified that it is centrally located and very close to the Warsaw Central station. We came out of the station and looked around for The Hilton and did see some hotels around us viz. the Novotel among others. We made enquiries and were informed (in sign language) that we have to go in a particular direction. We started walking (all the while looking at the top of buildings – cos after all the Hilton would be a tall building, right?) and after 5 mins of pulling our luggage through the main road, we decided to ask again… the next person was not so helpful but a cabbie heard us ask for directions and offered to drop us… “10 minutes drive” he said and we obviously laughed at the offer cos we had read in Lonely Planet that cabbies in Warsaw can be out to make a fast buck and should be avoided. Besides, P had written that it was “very close to the Warsaw Central station.” We marched on for another 5 mins and then decided to check again at a café. The gentleman in there kindly drew us a map with directions and after another 10 mins of walking we finally saw the Hilton logo perched on top of a building in the distance. We huffed and puffed and pulled and panted all the way and finally walked into the reception looking like a pair of refugees seeking asylum. At the reception, the lady asks for the name in which the reservation has been made. I give her my name, the wife’s name and P’s as well. She doesn’t find either. We write it out for her just so that she’s not making a typo… she still doesn’t find it. She asks for a print of the confirmation and I triumphantly tell her that yes… I have a soft copy of it on my laptop. Switch on the laptop, open the PDF document and just turn it around to her in style without bothering to take a look at it. She goes through the document and I see a smile light up her face… aha, finally she’s realized her mistake, I say to myself…
She turns it back at me and says… Sorry, but this is a confirmation for the Marriott and this is the Hilton now!!! For some strange reason, I read Marriott as Hilton and all the while we were looking for the Hilton. We sheepishly asked the same lady for directions to the Marriott and she again drew us a map. She also offered to arrange a cab for us. Until we sat in it, we didn’t realize that she had arranged a Hilton cab which happened to be a Merc … the driver tells us that it’s just a 5 min drive and soon pulls into the lobby of the Marriott and guess what… Across the road is the Warsaw Central station!!!
Learnings for me
- Read not just with the eyes, but also the mind – Hilton and Marriott are not even similar sounding or looking words.
- Not all cabbies are out to make a fast buck – the guy was actually truthful when he said that I’s a 10 mins drive
- When someone says that the place is “very close to some place” and you’ve been walking for more than 10 mins… something’s definitely amiss…
Anyway, the Marriott stay more than made for this goof-up. We had a splendid view overlooking the beautiful Science & History museum which had a clock tower which turned out to be our own personal clock. We didn’t need to look at our watches or mobile phones for the time… just look out of the window and there it was, towering above the rest of Warsaw for us!!!
Warsaw was in stark difference compared to London and Amsterdam for the space factor… ordinary roads in the middle of the city have 6 lanes for cars, plus 2 lanes for trams, plus 2 bicycle lanes and then a large pavement on either side of the road and another broad divider in the middle. We walked to the old town area in the evening and were again hit by the vastness and openness of the area. It had cobblestone paved walkways, had a very quaint and old-town feel to it and had numerous small restaurants which had indoor seating but also set up tables on the pavement as well. You’d be amazed at the number of small outlets selling ice-cream, we actually thought they were equal in number to the restaurants in the city. Our first dinner in Warsaw comprised of Pierogi (which is essentially the fried cousin of Momos) or steamed dumplings as they are described in English, the vegetarian versions could have a filling of either potato & cheese or cabbage & mushroom. This was accompanied by 2 small shots of traditional Polish vodka with about a litre of orange juice. And guess what – we paid as much for the orange juice as for the vodka. On the way back, we shopped at a kutti grocery store under the subway connecting the railway station and our hotel. I was also impressed to see a 24-hour internet café in the same subway. And the subway has a policeman standing on guard through all times of day and night. Has anybody seen a 24-hour grocery store / internet café (not in a petrol pump and not including 24-h medical stores) in Bombay?
We set off to explore other parts of the city the next day and again bought 24-hour travel cards which can be used on buses, trams and the metro – does such an option exist in any of the metro cities in India? Our first destination was the Wilanow castle and we got there just as they were closing for the day. We had the attendants stare us down for keeping them back at work and also had the head of their security walk behind us throughout the tour to ensure that we didn’t backtrack at any point in time. Towards the end, they actually started locking up rooms as soon as we came out of them… Photographic evidence would be attached later.
The experience turned out to be better outside, in the lavish castle gardens and we spent a wonderful evening by a lake which flows next to the castle. We were back at the Old town square where the wife gave me a guided tour thanks to some reading up that she had done from a wonderful book called the pocket guide to Warsaw. The book identifies places of interest and historical importance based on the mode of transport and route that you are traveling by… one list for Bus No. 180, another for Tram no. 4, another for walks and so on… We also went into the University of Warsaw which had an ongoing photography exhibition with some interesting clips on display. The Old town area is dotted with sculptures, churches and other buildings with interesting architecture… a photographer’s delight. We sat right in the middle of the Old town square and logged on to wi-fi which is made available free by the local administration for tourists and citizens. It’s the equivalent of sitting at a pedestrians only version of flora fountain and checking mail. We dined at a basement-level, quaint Italian restaurant which had portraits of Sophia Loren hung all around its interior…
We got out early the next morning (since we were done with the 2 nights package at the Marriott, anyway) and make full use of the 24-hour travel card that we had bought the previous day. We got on to a bus and just went up and down the city. We also visited one of the many parks which had a large sculpture of the renowned musician Fredrich Chopin (who is of Polish origin) being eaten by what looked like a dragon. By evening, we had figured out a way to head to Krakow and although we had booked a hostel in Krakow, I was more worried about the unreserved train that we had booked for the 4 hour journey. Images of a jam-packed train that stops at every single station enroute filled my mind. The Warsaw Central station was not really swanky like the other stations we had seen in Amsterdam or London, and my concern grew as we saw the crowd waiting on the platform. When the train pulled into the platform, there was a big rush to get in (of course – nothing compared to the rush at Mumbai CST station for unreserved compartments). I was overcome by a sense of relief as soon as we got in. Not only did we get good seats that were comfortable and plush, but the train hit a speed of 140 kmph within 5 mins of leaving the station. How did I know this… it had LCD screens inside each compartment which indicated the speed, temperature – outside and inside the train, next station and expected time of arrival as well… Much like the new rakes in Mumbai but a lot more informative…
More about Krakow in a later post
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